[This is the Aeroplast T60 in 1/35th scale.]



The Russian T-60 light tank has never received a lot of love from the modeling industry.   I believe there are only three options in 1/35 scale, and one of these is the tired and toy-like Zvesda kit.   The other two kits are much better, but are essentially the same kit.   Polish manufacturer Aeroplast released the "standard" version of the kit some time ago, and within the last 10 years, it was re-issued by RPM accompanied by a big honking sheet of photo-etch parts.   Both kits provide spoke and solid wheels, so an early or late version can be produced.   The late pattern exhaust is not included in either kit.






[The hull is assembled from flat plates, but this Polish made kit goes together well with no real issues.]



The Polish made kit goes together well with no real issues.   The hull is assembled from flat plates, as is typical with Eastern European kits, but everything fits and lines up just fine.   The suspension is simple and sturdy, but detail is maybe a little soft.   I added some nut & bolt detail to the suspension arms with some Grandt bolts to busy it up a bit.   The spoke wheels look good, and a wash and dry brushing really make them pop.






[The Aeroplast kit I got came with an extra set of better-detailed separate link tracks, miles ahead of the kit tracks.]



The Aeroplast kit I got came with an extra set of better-detailed separate link tracks, miles ahead of the kit tracks.   They appear to be similar to Kastin tracks.   I thought about using a set of Fruil metal tracks, but as I was trying to keep this build simple, I went with the supplied plastic upgrade tracks.   Also to change things up a bit, I replaced one of the spoke wheels with a solid wheel, as often happened when a wheel was damaged in use.



The T-60 was introduced in 1941 as a replacement for the T-40, featuring increased armor and firepower, but that's not the way it was planned.   As it turns out, the T-60 was a last minute left-turn, and originally not in the long-range strategic plan of the Soviet army.   At this time, it was becoming apparent that the amphibious capabilities of the T-40 weren't as important as more armor and a bigger gun, so it was planned that Moscow Factory #37 would start production of the T-50, which was designed by Leningrad Factory #174.   However, engineers at plant #37 determined that they did not possess sufficient technology to produce many of the complicated T-50 components, and lead by N. A. Astrov, literally came up with their own design that met the goals and would be much easier to produce.   They went so far as writing to Stalin to plead their case, and within a short time the T-60 was accepted, and an order for 10,000 was placed.

[Winter wartime T-60.]

One of the main reasons it was easier to produce was that the design shared many components with the T-40, including the chassis, transmission, and the engine.   It was also originally designed to use the same 12.7mm machine gun from the T-40, but it was obvious a bigger gun was needed.   It appears that a 37mm gun was tested, however the turret ring could not support the recoil, and therefore the rapid firing, high velocity 20 mm ShVAK automatic gun also used in aircraft was selected.   The hull of the new tank had a lower profile, and also featured thicker, more sloped armor.   A new eight-sided conical turret was also designed that was much cheaper to produce than the rounded turret of the T-40, and again offered better protection using thicker armor.   Amazingly, basically the entire tank was designed in only 15 days.

[T-60 on the Russian prairie.]

The T-60 was issued to reconnaissance and infantry units for direct infantry support.   The turret was offset to the left, with the engine mounted on the right, and the driver was located centrally in the front.   The commander /gunner manned the turret and was undoubtedly very busy.   Later models can be distinguished from the early models by the use of solid as opposed to spoke wheels, and a different exhaust.   Over 6000 T-60s were produced before being replaced by the T-70 light tank.







[The biggest shortcoming of the kit that must be addressed is the radiator screen, or lack there of, so I dressed up the kit part with brass screen and plastic stock. ]



The biggest shortcoming of the kit that must be addressed is the radiator screen, or lack there of.   The RPM kit provides this whole assembly as photo etched parts, but I decided to save that for the next project.   Instead, I dressed up the kit part with brass screen and plastic stock.




[I used the RPM photo etched parts as patterns to make most of the brass parts that I used on this build.]



Even though I decided to save the RPM photo etched parts for a late version project, I still found them very helpful to use as patterns to make brass parts that I did use on this build.   The parts I made this way included the exhaust deflector, the bullet splash deflector in front of the driver's front hatch, the fender supports on the hull sides, and the fender supports at the very front, and also the ones attached to the front glacis.   It also gave me the idea to use more brass screen to make the breather vent above the engine, next to the turret.   While I was there, I also cut off the lump of plastic handle on the engine cover, and replaced it with wire bent to shape.




[The driver's front hatch was detailed with a piece of brass filed and bent to shape, and six rivets in two different sizes.] [The other toolbox is a resin part that came from an MR Models update set, and the padlock came from the RPM set..]
[The tow hook locking mechanisms were scratched from styrene - five little parts per side.] [The only part that I did use from the RPM photo etch was the open toolbox on the right side.]



The only part that I did use from the RPM photo etch was the open toolbox on the right side.   The other toolbox is a resin part that came from an MR Models update set.   In scanning my references, I noticed that the front tow hooks, on the hull front, were missing the locking mechanisms directly above the hooks.   This was not addressed in either the RPM photo etch, or the MR Models update, so I made the parts from styrene, (five little parts per side) and attached them.   I also ran a wire to the front lamp, and inserted an MV lens after paint and finishing.   Another thing I noticed missing were the weld seems that run horizontal on either side of the driver station, just below the lamp.   I used the Archer press-on weld seems to replicate these.   To complete the hull, the tools came from the spares box.




[The 20mm gun barrel is a turned metal part from Elefant.] [All together, I added twenty-four rivets to the turret.]
[I added some fine paint chipping with a sharp tipped brush.] [I roughed up all the angled corners to simulate the welded plates.]



This brings us to the turret.   Again the kit part is OK, but it does need some help.   The visors on the turret, (and also the driver's front hatch), needed total rework.   Each assembly used a piece of brass filed and bent to shape, and six rivets in two different sizes.   There were also a lot of other rivets missing from the turret.   Four on the top hatch, three on either side of the gun mantlet, and two more on the turret left side.   All together, I added twenty-four rivets to the turret.   The 20mm gun barrel is a turned metal part from Elefant.   (Oh, I wish I had bought more of these!)   To finish off the turret, I roughed up all the angled corners to simulate the welded plates.




[Everything was primed with Model Master burnt umber enamel, followed with a 90% coat of MM dark green enamel.] [I applied several washes of burnt umber, and black, and just a touch of rust here and there.]



Painting was pretty simple. Everything was primed with Model Master burnt umber enamel.   This was followed with a 90% coat of MM dark green enamel.   It was then sealed up with a heavy coat of Tamiya clear acrylic to prepare for the oil washes that were applied next.   I used several washes of burnt umber, and black, and just a touch of rust here and there.   It was sealed with MM Acryl flat, and then dry-brushed out.   After that, I did a little more pin washing, and also added some fine paint chipping with a sharp tipped brush.




[I ran a wire to the front lamp, and inserted an MV lens after paint and finishing.] [Everything was sealed with MM Acryl flat, and then dry-brushed out.]



A pigment wash was then applied to the lower hull and running gear, and after drying, the excess was removed, leaving some in the cracks and corners.   Lastly, I ran a lead pencil over the track guide horns and raised cleats to give the bare metal look.   The base features a Bayardi fence, and most of the "weeds" were made from rope.




[A pigment wash was then applied to the lower hull and running gear, and after drying, the excess was removed, leaving some in the cracks and corners. ]





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